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Rivi Goods Loom Technical Archive

Mill Specification Index · Unsanforized & Sanforized Selvedge

Shuttle-Woven Selvedge Loom Archive & Raw Soak Calibration

Technical tolerances for narrow-bolt Toyoda G9 shuttle denim, warp-versus-weft soak contraction, fermented sukumo indigo ring-dyeing, and Union Special 43200G chain-stitch repair.

WORK-ORDER TICKET: LOT RG-145 TOYODA G9 · 29 IN BOLT
Loomstate Wt 14.5 oz/yd2
Metric Mass 492 g/m2
Density EPI/PPI 68 x 44
Max Warp Drop 8.2% @ 40C
Raw 16oz indigo selvedge denim tensioned across steel reed dents on a vintage Toyoda shuttle loom showing white and red ticker selvedge edge
Plate 01: Shuttle-woven 3x1 right-hand twill exiting the steel reed with a continuous-weft red-line selvedge border.
Core Engineering Synthesis

Shuttle-woven unsanforized denim built on narrow 29-inch Toyoda G9 looms exhibits 7% to 9% vertical warp contraction and 5% to 7% horizontal weft contraction during its initial 40C soak, increasing post-soak areal density by roughly 13% while locking ring-dyed #6 warp yarns into a dense, slub-textured 3x1 twill matrix.

Interactive Client-Side Calibration

Raw Denim Soak Shrinkage & Oz/yd2 Calculator

1. Mill Finish State
2. Soak / Wash Water Temperature
CALIBRATED SOAK ADVISORY: HEM AFTER DRYING

Predicted warp drop is 2.79 in and weft drop is 2.18 in. Expect waist to stretch back roughly 1.20 in over 10-14 wears.

Post-Soak Waist 29.82 in (-2.18")
Post-Soak Inseam 31.21 in (-2.79")
Post-Soak Thigh 11.42 in
Post-Soak Density 16.9 oz/yd2
Warp / Weft Shrink 8.2% / 6.8%
Metric GSM Shift 492 -> 573 g/m2

Loomstate fabric retains full reed tension; expect substantial vertical warp contraction and post-soak slub tightening.

Booktabs Loom Comparison Ledger

Shuttle Loom (Toyoda G9) vs Rapier Loom Engineering Parameters

Narrow wooden-shuttle looms weave at low warp tension with continuous weft turnarounds, whereas high-speed rapier and projectile looms cut each pick and lock edges with fringe or tucked leno threads.

Loom Architecture Weft Insertion Speed Bolt Width Typical EPI x PPI Weight Range (oz/yd2 / g/m2) Selvedge & Tension Profile
Toyoda G9 Shuttle Loom 110 - 135 picks/min 28 - 31 in (71 - 79 cm) 64 x 42 to 72 x 48 12.5 - 21.0 oz (424 - 712 g/m2) Continuous Turnaround Low warp tension preserves ring-spun slub irregularities.
Sakamoto SO-H Shuttle 100 - 125 picks/min 28 - 30 in (71 - 76 cm) 62 x 40 to 68 x 46 13.5 - 18.0 oz (458 - 610 g/m2) Slack-Reed Beatup Pronounced vertical grain ("tate-ochi") and high loomstate shrink.
Sulzer / Picanol Rapier Loom 420 - 650 picks/min 58 - 63 in (147 - 160 cm) 68 x 44 to 76 x 50 10.0 - 16.0 oz (339 - 542 g/m2) Cut-Pick Fringe High uniform tension reduces weave chatter and minimizes skewness.

Weave Geometry & Edge Construction

3x1 Right-Hand Twill Interlacing & Continuous Selvedge Loop

Each indigo warp yarn passes over three unbleached weft picks and under one, exposing roughly 75% indigo on the face while the shuttle returns without severing the weft filament.

3x1 Right-Hand Twill Warp-Weft Interlacing and Continuous Red-Line Selvedge Turnaround Diagram 3x1 Right-Hand Twill Cross-Section & Shuttle Turnaround Warp floats over 3 weft picks (indigo face) and tucks under 1 weft pick (ecru interior) TWILL MATRIX (WARP = INDIGO, WEFT = ECRU) Right-hand diagonal wale shifts +1 warp step per pick SHUTTLE SELVEDGE TURNAROUND Continuous #5 Weft Loop Zero cut fringe · Locked edge Selvedge Edge (29 in)
Figure 1: Left, 3x1 right-hand twill float sequence creating diagonal indigo wales; right, continuous shuttle weft U-turn locked along the red-ticker border.

Technical Dossiers & Workshop Records

Archive Sections

WORKBENCH · INTERACTIVE TOOL

Raw Denim Soak Shrinkage & Oz/yd2 Calculator

Full-screen dimensional contraction model comparing Unsanforized, Sanforized, and One-Wash cotton denim across Cold, Warm, and Hot soak temperatures.

METHODOLOGY · NON-IMPERSONATION

About the Archive & Historical Disclosure

Editorial verification rules, zero-telemetry calculator architecture, and clear boundary distinguishing this technical archive from past commercial entities.