Raw Denim Soak Shrinkage & Oz/yd2 Calculator
Full-screen dimensional contraction model comparing Unsanforized, Sanforized, and One-Wash cotton denim across Cold, Warm, and Hot soak temperatures.
Mill Specification Index · Unsanforized & Sanforized Selvedge
Technical tolerances for narrow-bolt Toyoda G9 shuttle denim, warp-versus-weft soak contraction, fermented sukumo indigo ring-dyeing, and Union Special 43200G chain-stitch repair.
Shuttle-woven unsanforized denim built on narrow 29-inch Toyoda G9 looms exhibits 7% to 9% vertical warp contraction and 5% to 7% horizontal weft contraction during its initial 40C soak, increasing post-soak areal density by roughly 13% while locking ring-dyed #6 warp yarns into a dense, slub-textured 3x1 twill matrix.
Interactive Client-Side Calibration
Predicted warp drop is 2.79 in and weft drop is 2.18 in. Expect waist to stretch back roughly 1.20 in over 10-14 wears.
Loomstate fabric retains full reed tension; expect substantial vertical warp contraction and post-soak slub tightening.
Booktabs Loom Comparison Ledger
Narrow wooden-shuttle looms weave at low warp tension with continuous weft turnarounds, whereas high-speed rapier and projectile looms cut each pick and lock edges with fringe or tucked leno threads.
| Loom Architecture | Weft Insertion Speed | Bolt Width | Typical EPI x PPI | Weight Range (oz/yd2 / g/m2) | Selvedge & Tension Profile |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Toyoda G9 Shuttle Loom | 110 - 135 picks/min | 28 - 31 in (71 - 79 cm) | 64 x 42 to 72 x 48 | 12.5 - 21.0 oz (424 - 712 g/m2) | Continuous Turnaround Low warp tension preserves ring-spun slub irregularities. |
| Sakamoto SO-H Shuttle | 100 - 125 picks/min | 28 - 30 in (71 - 76 cm) | 62 x 40 to 68 x 46 | 13.5 - 18.0 oz (458 - 610 g/m2) | Slack-Reed Beatup Pronounced vertical grain ("tate-ochi") and high loomstate shrink. |
| Sulzer / Picanol Rapier Loom | 420 - 650 picks/min | 58 - 63 in (147 - 160 cm) | 68 x 44 to 76 x 50 | 10.0 - 16.0 oz (339 - 542 g/m2) | Cut-Pick Fringe High uniform tension reduces weave chatter and minimizes skewness. |
Weave Geometry & Edge Construction
Each indigo warp yarn passes over three unbleached weft picks and under one, exposing roughly 75% indigo on the face while the shuttle returns without severing the weft filament.
Technical Dossiers & Workshop Records
Full-screen dimensional contraction model comparing Unsanforized, Sanforized, and One-Wash cotton denim across Cold, Warm, and Hot soak temperatures.
Reed dent geometry, warp beam tension curves, narrow 29-inch bolt economics, and shuttle turnaround selvedge construction tolerances.
Alkalescent reduction baths, leuco-indigo oxidation cycles, rope-dyeing skying towers, and low-water Los Angeles finishing trials.
Differential-feed spiral folder mechanics for diagonal hem roping, #9 solid copper rivet peening clearances, and Sashiko warp darning.
Preserved editorial record surrounding Rivi Goods, Double Down Denim, George Wilson, Heddels, and Apparel News manufacturing history.
Editorial verification rules, zero-telemetry calculator architecture, and clear boundary distinguishing this technical archive from past commercial entities.